Fonda San Miguel Restaurant

Joshua Hinsdale

Citysearch

The Scene
The lively space feels like a spacious hacienda in the Mexican highlands, with dark woods, leather and warm colors. Paintings by Mexican artists and large tin lanterns hang throughout. A front lounge has sitting areas with couches that invite diners to relax with a Latin cocktail (try the pisco sour or mojito) before their meal and a back bar bustles with the energy of a Mexican resort town. Service is affable, but shows signs of the thinning of talent often found in a fast-growing town.

The Food
The sopa de elote (cheesy corn soup) has a deep flavor, courtesy of roasted poblanos. Ancho relleno San Miguel is served atop a pool of cilantro cream sauce. Scallops are served on an over-powering sauce that hides their subtle flavor. Well-heeled diners finish with crepas de cajeta, featuring milky caramel sauce, cinnamon and ice cream. Sunday brunch is a relaxed family-friendly affair, with achiote-marinated pork and white drum seviche.

Hits: Instant relaxation when you open the door, as you're magically transported to a fine restaurant in the heart of Mexico.

Misses: Service lagged with wait staff showing a lack of training and not enough Mexican-style charm.